In this tutorial, we’ll guide you through the process of making custom spur straps using two types of leather—natural veg-tan for the top and latigo for the liner. You’ll learn how to assemble and stitch the pieces together using basic leatherworking tools. Follow these steps to create durable, high-quality spur straps.
Skylar Buckley (of Buckley Leather Goods) was kind enough to create an instructional video for us. We look forward to working with him in the future.
Materials You’ll Need:
- Leather:
- Top Leather: Hermann Oak 6-7 oz natural veg-tan Tooling leather
- Liner Leather: Seidel 3-4 oz Chocolate Latigo leather
- Tools:
- Round knife or head knife (a box cutter or razor blade can work as well)
- Stitch Groover (for marking your stitch lines)
- Scratching tool (to roughen up leather surfaces for better glue adhesion)
- Number two beveler (for smoothing edges)
- Handheld burnishing tool (or electric burnisher)
- Rotary hole punch (with multiple hole sizes)
- 1/4″ hole punch
- 1-inch oblong punch
- Leather glue (such as Fiebing’s leather cement)
- Hand Stitching Tools (stitching chisels, needles, and 0.8-1mm Ritza 25 Tiger Thread) or a Leather Sewing Machine
- Rivets and burrs (with a setting tool and mallet)
- Buckles (antique copper cart buckles are a good option)
- Mallet (for setting rivets)
- Nippers (old ferrier nippers work well)
- Optional: Chisel (1-inch) for creating slits
Step 1: Cut Out Your Pattern
Start by printing the spur strap pattern (available here). Trace the pattern onto your top leather (natural veg-tan leather). Be sure to mark all pieces needed for the spur straps.
Step 2: Cut the Leather Pieces
Use your round knife or head knife (or a box cutter if preferred) to carefully cut out your pieces from the top leather. Once the pieces are cut, take the cut-out top leather pieces and trace them onto the liner leather (Seidel Chocolate Latigo). Only trace the pieces that will serve as the liner. This ensures a proper fit for the liner beneath the top leather.
Step 3: Roughen the Leather and Apply Glue
After tracing, use a scratching tool to roughen the inside of the traced lines on the liner leather. This helps the glue adhere better. Then, apply a thin layer of leather glue (such as Fiebing’s leather cement) to the roughened areas of both the top leather and the liner. Press the two pieces together firmly and let the glue set. Allow time for the glue to bond properly.
Step 4: Cutting Around the Top Leather
Once the glue has set, use a round knife to carefully cut around the edges of the top leather, trimming the liner leather to match the shape of the top leather. This step ensures that the liner is the perfect size to fit underneath the top leather.
Step 5: Marking Stitching Lines
Before stitching, use a stitch groover to create a straight line where your stitching will go. This will help guide your stitching and ensure that it’s straight and consistent. Run the stitch groover along the edge of both the top and liner leather pieces where you plan to stitch them together.
Step 6: Stitching the Pieces Together
At this point, you’re ready to stitch the top leather and the liner leather together. If you’re hand-stitching, use stitching chisels to punch evenly spaced holes along the groove you just made. A 0.8 to 1mm tiger thread works well for hand sewing.
If you’re using a leather sewing machine, set it up and sew the pieces together following the stitch lines created by your chisels. A leather sewing machine will speed up the process and provide consistent stitches.
Step 7: Burnishing the Edges
Now that your pieces are stitched together, it’s time to finish the edges. Use your burnishing tool to smooth and round off the edges of both the top and liner leather. This step will not only make your spur straps look more professional but will also help to strengthen the leather edges for a more durable finish.
Step 8: Attach the Rivets and Buckles
Using a rotary hole punch, create the necessary holes for the rivets and buckles. For the hole that attaches the spur strap to the spurs, use a quarter-inch hole punch. For the buckle hole, use a 1-inch oblong punch.
Once the holes are made, attach the rivets and burrs with a mallet and rivet setting tool. Ensure that the rivets are tightly secured for durability.
Step 9: Final Touches
Check the stitching to make sure it is tight and even, and verify that the rivets are set properly. If you’d like, you can add custom tooling, stamping, or dyeing to the leather. Natural veg-tan leather is perfect for customization, so feel free to add your own personal touch.
Step 10: Ready to Use!
Your custom spur straps are now complete! The combination of natural veg-tan leather on top and chocolate latigo leather on the back gives the straps both strength and a stylish look. These spur straps are durable and ready for years of use.
Tips:
- Be careful when tracing and cutting to ensure precise measurements and a perfect fit between the top and liner leather.
- Allow ample drying time for the glue to ensure a strong bond.
- When hand stitching, take your time to ensure even stitches for a clean, professional look.
With this step-by-step guide, you’ll be able to craft your own custom spur straps. Whether you hand sew or use a sewing machine, the result will be a durable and high-quality set of leather straps. Happy leatherworking!